Holiday Weekend Cookout Challenge: Secret Sauce

Dropped my nephew off at college yesterday, but before I sent James down the path for his journey on his junior year, I asked if he'd like to have lunch. His choice.

He picked a Mom-and-Pop burger joint near campus, a drive-thru with a fairly straightforward menu. Why do you like this place? I asked. "They have really good secret sauce," he answered. Funny.

When I want a burger, I search for spots that put the focus on the meat, but for many fans of the ground beef classic, toppings are king. Secret sauce is almost always part of the equation and the secret sauce is the world's worst kept mystery: a blend of mayo and ketchup, maybe with some relish. In other words, a combo that looks and tastes a lot like Thousand Island dressing.

But what if you wanted to elevate that sauce? Give it a little upscale twist.

Before I fire up the grill this weekend and make a bunch of burgers, I'm going to make a batch of traditional remoulade sauce from Tom Fitzmorris' great book, New Orleans Food. It's a mayo-based sauce with scallions, a bit of Creole mustard, lemon juice and Tabasco. Add a little ketchup, maybe a squirt of Sriacha and there you have it, a burger sauce that goes the distance.

What's in your secret sauce?

-- Leslie Kelly

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Pumpkin Seed Oil and Ice Cream? Say "Yes"!

I can't say that I've ever cooked with pumpkin seed oil. Have you? But I can say I never expected to put it on ice cream. Thick rich balsamic vinegar, yes. I've eaten it with strawberry ice cream, and it was a revelation. And olive oil ice cream recipes abound. But pumpkin seed oil?

Apparently I missed out on the specialty oil boom, because pumpkin seed oil, with its dark color and deep caramel-like flavor is not a novelty. Though new to me, it's being poured over or mixed through vanilla ice cream in kitchens and dining rooms all over Germany, Austria and swaths of Eastern Europe. Have you given it a try?

Topped with pumpkin seeds, plain or sweetened--caramelized, candied or brittled--and you've got an elegant and sophisticated dessert.

--Tracy Schneider

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Bruschetta Goes Global

Photo by B. Schilperoort

It's really nothing more than toasted bread with tomatoes on top. On my German menu it was called a "Toastardo" but most of us know this Italian antipasto as bruschetta. It's tomato season, so now is the time to indulge in this easy yet memorable stand-alone snack, cocktail accompaniment or full-on appetizer.

Toast day-old French or Italian bread, rub with garlic and sprinkle on some olive oil. Top with chopped and drained tomatoes that have been mixed with salt, basil and even more olive oil. Call it whatever you like, but don't miss out.

--Tracy Schneider

Toaster-Oven

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Sweet Preservation Launched by Washington State Fruit Commission

Washington State stone fruits are hitting their peak right now, and the Washington State Fruit Commission just launched Sweet Preservation.

Created in order to help cooks preserve these fruits for the winter, the consumer website is a beautiful comprehensive resource that offersdetailed information on how to can or freeze the peaches, plums, apricots, nectarines, andcherries that grow abundantly here in the Evergreen State. Recipes and tips for pulling off a preservation party are included. Plus, there are some charming downloadable labels created just for the site by an Etsy designer.

Washington's stone fruit season will run through the end of September and the fruits are sold nationwide.

Photo by Melissa A. Trainer

--Melissa A. Trainer

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Back to School with Nash's Best Carrots!

Did you know that all carrots are not created equal? We learned this elementary lesson in my little kitchen about twelve years ago.

My son was only about two years old at the time, and I happened to buy a BIG twenty-five pound bag of juicing carrots at PCC. My favorite produce guy touted them as very very good. When I peeled one of those carrots and handed it to my son, his eyes kind of lit up. He immediately knew they were different and kept asking for more! That was all that I needed to become permanently committed to buying Nash's carrots.

Nash's Organic Produce farm is located in Washington's Dungeness Valley, and Nash has been farming for well over thirty years now. He's well known for being a pioneer in the industry. Nash's "famous carrots" are sweet, crunchy, and full of beta carotene. The Nantes variety from Europe, the carrots thrive in the alluvial soil of the region.

I find the carrots to be deliciously versatile...they worknicely as a lunch box addition and they cook into soft and sweet nuggets when included in comforting stews. They work great in carrot cake and are very much appreciated in my wholesome carrot and oatmeal cookies.

When I was at Seattle's University District Farmers' Market last weekend, I purchased a five-pound bag of the carrots. I wanted them on deck for the "back to school" week ahead. This morning, I peeled and sliced a few of those beautiful carrots and tucked them into a brown bag for lunch. I'm hopingthey help to sweeten the transition from the lazy days of summer to the jam-packed days offall!

Photo of Nash's Best!Carrots by Melissa A. Trainer

--Melissa A. Trainer

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This Season's Fizzy Red Drink

I don't know how it happened, but all of a sudden, Lambrusco, Northern Italy's sparkling red wine is everywhere. Once considered to be too sweet and too 'seventies, the newer, not-so-sweet Lambrusco is appearing on wine cards and wine bars all around Germany. Last week I drank a glass with a large platter of charcuterie, that included cooked ham, prosciutto, salami, soft cheeses and a variety of green olives. It was perfect.

Last month, Eric Asimov, the wine columnist of the New York Times, made a new case for this fun and fizzy wine. He's been a big fan for years, and I'm not the first to notice. Al Dente writer StellaCadente* noticed it 2+ years ago in the post "Going Red". Are you a fan too?

If Lambrusco is new to you, imagine drinking a fruity and frizzy dark red wine. In Italy, Lambrusco is known as a frizzante, a mildly sparkling wine. It's nothing like Champagne, sekt, cava, crmant or prosecco. It's sparkling, but not light, and I love its intense flavor, so unlike other sparkling wines. Chilled, it's turning out to be this summer's sleeper wine. Salute!

--Tracy Schneider

Red Wine Glass

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Super Quick Short Ribs in the Kuhn Rikon

While at the Nordstrom Cafe recently, my daughterenjoyed a fabulous luncheon dish that featured braised short ribs simmered in tomatoes and served over pappardelle pasta. Before we ordered the dish that day, we inquired about it...Was it a new item? Was it good? Was it worth $14.95 for what is basically a pasta dish? The server nodded enthusiastically and replied that it was really good and that they had just tweaked the recipe considerably, adding red wine and marinatingthe ribsovernight. The "tweaking" aspectpiqued our curiosity and sealed the deal. Carolyn ordered it.

She enjoyed the rich boneless meat sauce and asked me if I couldreplicate it at home. I took a fewbites and made some mental notes for my taste memory. It was excellent.I've sincebeen doing some research and this morning stumbled upon this Kuhn Rikon recipe for Short Ribs Braised with Cipollini Onions. The recipe looks quite similar, but what I really love about this version is that it can be made in under35 minutes in the pressure cooker!

I write about the Kuhn Rikon pressure cooker quite often here on Al Dente, but I have to admit that I've never used mine for short ribs. It sounds like a perfect solution for tackling a cut of meat that normally takes a few hours to cook on a low simmer.

Have you ever cooked short ribs in a pressure cooker?

--Melissa A. Trainer

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Blended Summer Imbibing!

This week on Kathy Casey's Liquid Kitchen, I make a Blended Peach Whiskey Sour! Using my Vitamix The Quiet One Blender, whole peaches (frozen peaches work well too, if fresh ones are not available) are blended up along with bourbon and apricot jam for this refreshing take on a classic sip. Perfect and refreshing for a hot, summer's day!

Cheers! -Kathy

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Getting Fresh, With Herbs That Is. This Week: The Finale

Today is the last of our Tuesday herb conversations, a summer series that has spurred me on not just to grow herbs in my garden, but to use them in my kitchen as well. What herbs have you been growing and cooking this summer?

This week I came across a packet of herbs at the local market that had been grouped together to make Frankfurt's famed Green Sauce. Included were borage, parsley, sorrel, salad burnet, dill, chervil and chives, and on the paper wrapper was a simple recipe, calling just for cream, yogurt, salt and lemon juice. So I used my handy mezzaluna to mince the herbs, mixed in the other ingredients and then ate it with hard boiled eggs and boiled potatoes. It tasted even better thanthe meal that I ate in Oberrad, the home of Green Sauce.

As I have learned, even though Green Sauce is made with seven different green herbs, there's a lot of latitude as to which herbs to include. So at the end of the summer, when you've got lots of extra greens around, this is the perfect way to make use of them. And even though this dish is typically a spring meal, I think that it makes a great summer finale.

Here's a last look at the herbs we've grown and eater together:

Tarragon
Basil
Cilantro
Thyme
Sage
Rosemary
Dill
Parsley
Salad Burnet
Mint
Chives
Oregano

--Tracy Schneider

Two-Handled
Mezzaluna

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The Easiest Party Platter Ever

When it's hot and humid, my appetite takes a dive, but that's nothing compared to what happens to any motivation I might have. It completely disappears. On those days, there's nothing tastier or easier to prepare than a platter of charcuterie. When I'm making this at home, it's alwayssimple, maybe prosciutto with melon. But when I'm out on the town, I'm always inspired by the innumerable combinations.

This charcuterieplatter arrived at our table one Saturday afternoon outside of Sdlandhaus. Food and drink is eaten in the open, standing up. And what a feast it was! Raw and cooked thinly sliced ham and a hazelnut-studded salami made up the meats. The cheeses were soft and spreadable and unknown to me. Rounding out the platter were two varieties of olives and several slices of hearty farmer's bread. We ate it all up.

This charcuterie plate, elaborate as it was, is certainly easy enough to reproduce at home. And what a party platter it would make!

--Tracy Schneider

Serving Platter

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Top 5 Things I've Learned Judging Cooking Contests This Summer

It's been a mighty filling season! Lucky me, I've been invited to judge a whole bunch of cooking contests this summer, starting with a rhubarb roundup at a farmers market to a fancy chef lamb throwdown. Whether the competitors were home cooks or pros, they all brought their A game for what basically amounted to bragging rights.

At each one of these fun, food-focused events, I had the pleasure of tasting some truly wonderful dishes, but there was also some delicious take-away lessons. I've been inspired to try re-creating many of these clever preparations at home. Yes, somebody's effort came out on top -- or, in a controversial dead-heat, ended up in a tie -- but all the contestants who took the time and made the effort were winners!

No. 1: The rhubarb contest at the Columbia City Neighborhood Farmers Market invited both sweet and savory recipes. I sure do love this plant's versatility. Contestants brought cakes and pies and a gorgeous rhubarb spritzer. The dish that caused my jaw to drop (so I could shovel more in!) was a rhubarb chutney made with rosemary. Such a great combination. The winner sent me a link to her recipe.

No. 2: When the rules toss you a curveball, make puffed rice crispies. At the annual Ready, Set, Go... Cook competition at the University District Farmers Market, two fiercely competitive chefs were given the challenge of purchasing products at the market with $20 and then creating two dishes. But, that curveball was a doozy: a grab bag of ingredients from the U-District Food Bank. Stuff like lentils and soy milk and generic Rice Krispies. The idea was to demonstrate that you can make supremely delicious farmers market meals even when you're on a budget. The chefs created some gorgeous plates in just an hour, and both toasted the puffed rice to add a note of crunch to their off-the-cuff creations. The verdict: A tie! Watching Dezi Bonow from Palace Kitchen and Josh Green from Serafina do their respective things was thrilling and reinforced my desire to take full advantage of summer produce at the farmers markets.

No. 3: At an American Lamb Board throwdown yesterday in Seattle's Ballard neighborhood, chefs were charged with wowing judges and consumers by preparing dishes featuring leg and shoulder. The entries were remarkable simply because you could see the incredible thought put into the novel presentations. A banh mi made with a lamb shoulder sausage? Yes! Leg of lamb pho? You bet! Lamb that tasted like pastrami? Mmmm! The amazing sausage -- made by the crew at Bastille Cafe & Bar -- really stood out. So spicy and such a terrific snap! It immediately moved my fall sausage making project to the front burner. That, and the fact that I just bought a half a pig!

No. 4: When it comes to pies, there are no losers. I rarely make them at home -- because if I had pie around, I'd eat slice after slice -- but when I have them made by others, I so admire these sweet treats. That's what made it tough to pick a winner at a pie contest at the Phinney Ridge Farmers Market a few weeks ago. There were peach pies and tender crusts filled with berries. But it was an apple pie topped with an oatmeal crisp that rose to the top. Definitely a non-traditional pie, almost a cross between a pie and a brown betty. And I'm making one tonight.

No. 5: Finally, all things in moderation! This mantra preached by the late, great Julia Child has been floating around in my brain a lot this summer, with all the feasting and critical eating and food judging I've been doing. I really do try to take just a bite or two of everything, but that's often impossible to do when something tastes so darned good. So, to balance out my occasionally over-the-top eating schedule, I have redoubled my efforts to walk and swim. It has helped, but as August winds down, I'm finding myself reaching for those elastic waistband shorts a whole lot more.

-- Leslie Kelly

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A Plum By Many Names

After several days of 95 degree weather, it was cool enough today to wear a sweater. Has fall arrived too soon? Everyone at the bakery must have been thinking fall, because the Zwetschgenkuchen (plum cake) quickly sold out, and all that was left by early afternoon were cakes loaded with whipped cream or chocolate mousse, typical Sunday cakes.

Zwetschgenkuchen is an Autumn dessert. You'll find it on seasonal menus and or as a daily blackboard special. It's made with plums, but not Pflaumen(plums) as I used to think, but rather with Zwetschgen (plums). What's the difference between one plum and another? I asked that question myself and here's what I learned: Pflaumen have a cling pit, while Zwetschgen have a pit that easily separates fromthe flesh of the fruit. And it's Zwetschgen that are used in Germany's traditional plum cake.

Zwetschgenkuchenis made with Italian plums--small, oval, purple plums--layered on a yeasted dough and is typicallyserved with a whole lot of whipped cream as shown in the photo above. It's one more sign of the changing seasonshere in Germany.

--Tracy Schneider

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A Sensible Space Saving Pitcher from Luminarc

Is refrigerator space at a premium in your household? It certainly is in mine.

With two teenagers in the house, I find that my refrigerator gets quite full and that I spend a fair amount of time juggling bits and bobs to make more space and avoid waste. One item that is particularly challenging to manage is the juice container!

We don't drink a ton of juice, but Ioftenkeep orange juice in the house and the containers can be a hassle to store. I've tried the gallon containers, which are beasts to stash on the shelves. Then I went back to the quart containers...those are easier to deal with but not all that convenient. Now, I'm thinking of getting one of these slim glasspitchers from Luminarc. They have received some good reviews and easily fit into the shelves on the refrigerator door. They look nice and apparently wash easily. I figure that I could transfer the juice into these pitchers or if I use the more reasonably pricedconcentrated juice, then I could just mix the juice right in the pitcher as well.

Do any of our readers use these pitchers? Or do any ofyou have a favorite space saving pitcher for your fridge?

--Melissa A. Trainer

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Beautiful Wild Blackberries!

The wild blackberries are ripe! At long last, the plethora of wild blackberries found out here in Seattle are plump and ready for picking. On trails and in parks it is common to see berry enthusiasts braving the thorns and picking berries!

I have loved wild blackberry season ever since I moved to Seattle in 1995. I was astonished that so many plump berries were easily found and free for the picking! Back then, everyone seemed to take my enthusiasm with a ho-hum sigh. No one seemed particularly impressed by the glossy fat berries or they simply took their existence for granted. Many of my gardening friends reminded me that they were an invasive nuisance! I was sort of baffled by the lackluster enthusiasm for such a sweet wild treasure. Having been born and raised on suburban Long Island, I can assure you that I didn't grow up with berries growing so wild and free!

I braved the thornyhedges last week and gathered my first five pounds. The berries were just starting to ripen after a brief heat wave. A pound of those berries were turned into an unstrained berry syrup suitable for ice cream or yogurt. The rest of the berries were frozen on a tray and transferred to a heavy duty freezer bag. They will be turned into cobblers and crisps in the off season.

Are you a wild berry fan? Do you gather berries, such as huckleberries, salmonberries, cranberries, or blackberries in your region?

Photo by Melissa A. Trainer

--Melissa A.Trainer

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A Simple Stand Hides a Garden of Delights

The sign read "Bohnen", and I couldn't resist stopping to pick up a bag of the freshly picked green beans. This simple stand, just a card table really, has been selling a small sampling of garden produce all summer long, strawberries, raspberries, and now green beans.

As I was paying for my Bohnen I noticed a perfect path behind the stand that led straight through the garden, and I couldn'thelp but ask to see this prodigious plot. It was narrow and deep and filled with beds of asparagus, strawberries, tomatoes, currants, squash, raspberries adn pumpkins. There were apples, grapes and quince. And those green beans.

I learned that the space had also at one time housed twenty rabbits, but over the years they became too much work--and ate as much as a cow. I can't imagine just how much work this perfect-looking garden requires. Clearly it is a labor of love.

--Tracy Schneider

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Got A Bone To Pick With Modernist Cuisine's Nathan Myhrvold

Like lots of food junkies, I get my daily fix by subscribing to various Web sites that fill up my email inbox with regular missives, touting the latest, greatest trends. This week, I devoured the Genius Recipe column on Food52.com, which shared the Modernist Cuisine's one-ingredient ice cream. Frozen bananas whirred in a food processor! Brilliant!

But reading the text, I spotted a rare gaffe from the big-brained inventor/culinary pioneer (whose Modernist Cuisine At Home--co-authored with Maxime Bilet --comes out in October). In the Food 52 post, he suggested that bananas had so much pectin,"So much so that if you add them to strawberry jam, you can omit the pectin you would otherwise need to add."

Tsk, tsk, Dr. M. You DO NOT need to add pectin to jam.

WHAT? Why would you skip pectin? What's wrong with it? Isn't it a natural product?

That's the reaction I get from family and friends when I tell them I've kicked the pectin habit. Yes, pectin is derived from apples, but most of the commercial pectin available is pumped full of other stuff with long, chemical-sounding names like fumaric acid and dexdro-something-or-other. Besides, if you choose to skip pectin, you don't have to use as much sugar. Which means you taste more of the fruit.

One of my favorite jam-making guides is The Joy of Jams, Jellies and Other Sweet Preserves: 200 Classic and Contemporary Recipes Showcasing the Fabulous Flavors of Fresh Fruits. (With an emphasis on that last little bit!)

Author Linda Ziedrich includes tips for getting jams just thick enough, starting with a list of fruits that are naturally high in pectin. Blackberries fall in the medium category, though you'd never believe it based on the jam I made just yesterday from a huge haul of foraged berries in our neighborhood.

I made the small batch recipe and doubled it. (Even though Linda warns against that because of the jam's propensity to boil over.) It turned out beautifully! (Pictured here.) A little liquidy going into jars, but it firmed up nicely. No pectin needed.

Maybe I should send some to Nathan?

-- Leslie Kelly

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A Potato Primer for Back to School

Did you know that all potatoes are not created equal? Without a doubt, some varieties are better for some things than others. For example, starchy potatoeswork better for fluffy comforting mashed potatoes, while the waxier varieties are better for salads because they hold their shape during cooking.

During the fall months, I always stock up on locally grown organic potatoes purchased from a fabulous Washington farmer. The spudsare priceless when it comes to crafting dinners off the cuff. I've been doing this every fall for at least 15 years and on many days, my potato stash has dug me out of the dinnertime ditch! For my "root cellar" stash, I usually stock up on Buttes, Yukon Gold,or German Butterballs. I also always have Russets on hand. We also grow fingerlings in our garden so I usually have a basket of those on deck too.

If you aren't familiar with how to judge and use the different varieties found at markets and grocery stores, check out this useful resource from the United States Potato Board. The primer clearly shows the basic types of potatoes (Fingerlings, Petites, Purples, Russets, Reds, and Whites)and explains whyeachvariety isbetter for some dishes than others. And, in their recipe section, you can easily search the database by potato type.

So, with school starting and schedules ramping up again, it's worth taking stock of your potato know how. Potatoes are affordable, versatile, nutritious, and easy to store!

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It's Mushroom Season!

We're getting into the latter part of August, but here in Germany children have only been out of school for a month, the weather has been hovering in the 90s, and we've been eating our fair share of ice cream,so it hardly seems like the end of summer to me.

But the seasons, they are changing, and it's easy to see that in the markets and at the restaurants. Local produce is moving on from asparagus (none) and strawberries (few) to boxes and boxes of mushrooms. Restaurants are touting dishes with Chanterelles (Pfifferlinge in German), be they with noodles, with rice or with dumplings.

This blue plate special from an outdoor cafe at a nearby town included pork in a creamy Chanterelle sauce, sauteed vegetables and ribbony egg noodles. I'm on the prowl for menus loaded with Chanterelles. How about you?

--Tracy Schneider

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Local Food and Fun at Regional Fairs!

Now that summer is starting to wrap up, we are seeing and hearing more about local state and county fairs.

Here in Western Washington, the excitement is starting to mount for the annual Puyallup Fair. My children look forward to this fair each year, and I must admit that I don'tsavor the crowds but I DOlove looking at the livestock, the 4-H exhibits, the food and agricultural displays. The fair runs from September 7-23 and some of the new foodoptions on deck this year willinclude Monster Yard of Lemonade, Bacon-Wrapped Hot Dogs, Slush Ice Cream, and the Cowgirl Candy Cones. I haven't had any of these items yet, but I just might have to put them on my Puyallup Fair "to do list."

For more information on events, competitions, discounts, parking, concerts, rides, and rodeos, check out the official website here.

Do you have any favorite fairs in your region?

Photo by Carolyn Trainer

--Melissa A. Trainer

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Ice Cream or Whipped Cream? I Scream for Both Creams!

Ice cream shops are everywhere in Southern Germany. In my small town alone there are two sit-down ice cream parlors, not to mention several cafes that serve an expansive selection of ice cream treats. And then there is the ice cream truck that scoops up my favorite flavors and comes down my street every afternoon.

My daughter and I have our favorite ice cream spots, but the one we frequent most often is in Heidelberg where we order the hard-to-find mint chip. You can get rum raisin or rhubarb easily around here, but mint chip seems to be a rather exotic flavor.

What isn't hard to find here in Germany is Schlagsahne, or whipped cream, and it is the real deal. It's real cream, thick and not too sweet. We like it swirled on top of our ice cream cone. Especially when it comes with a spoon.

I like Schlagsahne with everything: apple strudel, hot cocoa, and most especially ice cream, but I'd never seen it atop an ice cream cone until I got to Europe, where it's a frequent sight whether you're in Germany, France or Italy.

Are you a whipped cream fan too? And have you come across ice cream cones like these, with whipped cream on top, in the U.S?

--Tracy Schneider

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Another Day, Another Kndel

Photo by B. Schilperoort

When I saw Semmelkndel mit Pfifferlinge, (bread dumplings with Chanterelles), on my menu yesterday, I just couldn't pass it up. Only days ago I wrote about another traditional Kndel, Leberkndel, and I have been on a mission ever since to try as many kinds of German dumplings as I can. The fact that this Kndel was served with Chanterelle mushrooms was just icing on the cake. I love the seasonality of food here in Germany, and mushrooms have now moved into the forefront of seasonal cuisine.

Last fall, when we moved to Germany, every menu touted something (or more often many things) made withpumpkin. Then roast goose appeared just before the holidays and lasted throughout the winter months. Chestnuts appeared too, and then they were gone. White asparagus was everywhere in spring. Most restaurants even had a special asparagus menu that ran from the end of May through June. Strawberries appeared, and then disappeared. Now it's the mushroom's time to shine. Boxes of Chanterelles, beautifully displayed, are a common sight right now at the open-air markets.

TheSemmelkndelpictured above tasted like Thanksgiving bread stuffing, only this stuffing had been formed into a ball. What's not to like? Sauced with sauteed Chanterelles, onions, scallions and cherry tomatoes, it was the perfect precursor to Autumn weather. And though I ate it in 95 degree fahrenheit weather, I didn't mind it at all.

--Tracy Schneider

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Le Creuset Barbecue Pot for Labor Day Weekend

Are you heading to a friend's cabin or beach house for Labor Day weekend?

Are you stumped as to what to bring for a hostess gift? Well, this little Le Creuset barbecue pot with silicone brush will fit the bill. Labor Day weekend is traditionally the last big barbecue weekend of the year, so why not go out witha little style? The chubby little pot features the signature Le Creuset logo and an embossed pig on the front. The lid will keep pesky flies out of the sauce, and the jar is easy to clean andmicrowave safe as well.

If you really want to impress your hostess, bring some special barbecue sauce or be brave and make your own to go with the barbecue pot!

--Melissa A. Trainer

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Smitten with Summertime Sipping!

This week on Kathy Casey's Liquid Kitchen: I shake up a Smitten cocktail! Fresh muddled in-season watermelons adds a great "cool" taste to the tequila's bite while the dash of hot sauce adds a lil zing to the flavor. The Citrus Salt rim completes the sipping experience and works great as a garnish.

Remember: the hot sauce should be used sparingly and should enhance the flavor, not overpower it!

Salud! -Kathy

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Getting Fresh, With Herbs That Is. This Week: Tarragon.

Another week, another herb! We'll be wrapping up our Tuesday herb conversations next week. What have I forgotten? Have we missed your favorite herb?

In the meantime, I've been seeing lots about tarragon, and though I didn't grow it this year, I'm thinking that was a mistake. Tarragon vinegar, anyone? And what about Tarragon Chicken? Everybody seems to have a recipe for it, from Rachael Ray to Jamie Oliver to NIgella Lawson.

And what makes Barnaise sauce, Barnaise? Well, that's right, tarragon. Barnaise sauce is made with butter, egg yolks, vinegar, white wine, shallots and tarragon. Have you made this relative to Hollandaise sauce? Or have you eaten it? As Steak Bearnaise? With Halibut? Or hard boiled eggs? Sounds good, doesn't it?

As I understand it, if you're growing tarragon, it's French tarragon that you're looking for, which has a stronger flavor than the Russian or Mexican variety. Buy the plant, because it is hard to grown from seed.

All I can say is, "What are waiting for?"

--Tracy Schneider

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Country Pate at Cafe Campagne in Seattle

I recently managed to sneak away from my desk and my little kitchen in order to meet a fellow writer who was in Seattle and had just disembarked fromthe Oosterdam, aluxurious Holland America seven-day cruise through the Inside Passageof Alaska!

Georgette Diamandiswrites for Johnny Jet and we first met last fall. When I heard she was going to be free forbrunch I suggested we try Cafe Campagne in the heart of Seattle's Pike Place Market. I am a loyal fan of this fabulous French restaurant but it was Georgie's first visit.

As usual, I opted for their country pateand a simple salad on the side. Without fail, this is what I always order! I know, I should be a little more adventurous, but sometimes it's the tried and true French classics that always win hands down for me! Served with pickled red onion, cornichons, two different mustards and a big hunk of French bread, this country-style pork and chicken liver pate always meets the mark.

Photo by Melissa A. Trainer

--Melissa A. Trainer

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Not the Perfect Tomato. Better.

It's my daughter's favorite tomato right now, the Coeur de Boeuf. First, there's its arresting shape, which for whatever reason, makes me think of Buddha's hand lemons. (Do you see fingers in the Coeur de Boeuf too?) Then there's the Coeur de Boeuf's fleshy interior, not juicy, but delicious just the same.

Coeur de Boeuf ("cow's heart" in French) tomatoes are all over the open-air markets here in Southern Germany, but I can't say I have ever seen them in the U.S. Have you seen them? Have you tried them? Have you noticed that the Coeur de Boeuf ripens from the inside, so that even a greenish tomato can be brightred on the inside?

Fresh sweet corn withbutter and thickly sliced tomatoes with salt, nothing more, aren a favorite summertime meal of mine. And that's what I was serving for dinner a few weeks ago, when my daughterdeclared the Coeur de Boeuf the best tomato she'd ever eaten. What's yours?

--Tracy Schneider

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